The glamour scratch by Gucci – MILANO MODA DONNA September 21st 2011
Also N21 by Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Richmond and Alberta Ferretti open the first day of MILANO MODA DONNA, Milano fashion week which present woman collections for the spring/summer 2012 that will end on September 27th , with the shows of young designers supported by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.
The morning started with the show of Simonetta Ravizza, historical maison of furs that, for the first time, shows with a collection of total summer look. Colors and batik prints, bell bottoms trousers, white shirts and very colorful fur vests. Next, in the tent-structure of Piazza Duomo offered by CNMI, Roccobarocco, that overcame the impasse due to the theft of the collection, and was able to present an independent and volatile woman: red and yellow absolute colors, united and mixed with black, and with peaks of aquamarine green. Prints of a marine-animals, chiffon’s transparencies, and hemp safari jackets, enhanced by stones which eliminate the colonial obviousness. A Scheherazade that seduces the cruel Shahriyar of “The Thousand and one Night”.
Soft geometries by Gucci that enchanted us with clear and determined chromatic choices of black, gold and white, hints of green and bits of ocher. “Boyish meets girlish” says Frida Giannini to the foreign journalists. Cuts are rigorous, trousers with double pleats, shirts in soft cloths, but precise and impeccable in their style. Colors mix in geometrical games, of deco’s mood. In the evening, hints of transparencies and soft leather and metal fringes appear, thin as those of the Charleston’s dancers of the late ‘20s.
In a parterre filled with celebrities, soccer players and famous faces, the Richmond woman, sexier than ever, uncovers her curves and rides the walkway like a real vamp: backcombed hairdos and strong makeup for the models; colors to the limit, from red to deep purple, from white vs. black to black vs. yellow. Also here transparencies, chiffon, skirts up to the knee and power to the waist line.
Also this time, Roberta Ferretti did not deny us of her romanticisms: her woman is ethereal and refined, but also in this case allows for hints of transparencies. Nude and black for all monochromatic dresses, simple and adherent to the body, but made special by the geometrical crossings of the embroidered tulle. Breaks of colors thanks to the tropical-jungle prints, and the recall in the joined colors lobster and sage green; crochet works and colored beads for the more ethnic appearances.
In the N21 of Alessandro Dell’Acqua: contrasts were the leaders: blue man shirts with skirts decorated with plastic maxi spangles. Sweaters with suede elbow patches matched with running shorts, but studded with turquoise stones. I-Pad containers instead of bags e key chains as necklaces. A vision with no uncertain terms: either you love it or you hate it.
Transparencies in laces and organza with the trump of rushes and sculptured heels for Francesco Scognamiglio. Nude and black are dominant, but also apricot color and green Veronese, leaving a trade mark. An elegance enriched by a soft and sophisticated eroticism : length knee high, balloon jackets and armor jewelry reminiscing the metamorphosis concept of Apollo and Dafne myth.
The night ended, with the retrospective show of the brand Louis Vuitton, cured by Mark Jacobs, designer of the maison and by Katie Grant, respected editor and English designer.
Iacopo Crudeli
